Sardines a’swimmin in Saltwhistle Bay…
We had a great time in gorgeous Saltwhistle Bay, Mayreau. We arrived early and had the tiny anchorage all to ourselves. We frolicked in the calm waters and trolled for sea shells on the crescent-shaped beach. The view was spectacular offering sights of both the windward and leeward sides of the island and swaying palm trees that separate the two. We were fortunate that we were able to enjoy this gorgeous place in peace for the three hours that we did.
Unfortunately, when the clock struck noon, the Cinderella anchorage turned into quite a pumpkin. It seemed that all at once charter boats began to inundate the small bay. Even worse, all of these charterers felt the need to anchor right on top of us. They came in at full speed, packed to the gills with pasty, white charterers armed with expensive telephoto cameras, screaming kids, water toys, and cheesy music. Fights between charter captains broke out on several occasions as they were all jockeying for limited anchoring space. Fighting was made easy as everyone’s boat was within spitting distance from the other. Most of the culprits were French, with their haughty attitudes and complete disregard for etiquette and privacy. We were caught right in the middle of it all, but it offered quite a show.
To get away from the madness and the idiots within salt-passing distance from our cocktpit, we elected to have dinner ashore. We went to the Saltwhistle Bay Club and had an amazing dinner of grilled spiny lobster, crab cakes and peach cobbler. We were the only dinner guests there and it was nice to have our peace and solitude back once again. We enjoyed our meal and laughed about all of the charter boats and reflected on how different an experience it would be to be on one of those boats instead of ours.
Now we are back in Bequia. One of those same idiotic charter boats ended up going aground on the reef in Saltwhistle Bay. The “captain” was too busy talking to a person in a dingy instead of paying attention to where he was going. He crashed the boat right into the reef and the boat stayed there. It was the end of their vacation, but it started a whole new bustle of activity for locals and cruisers. One of our acquaintances came in with his large tugboat to “salvage” the boat which he now claimed as his. As luck would have it, he is having a party on board his tug for fellow cruisers to come by and “shop” for needed boat items just in time for Christmas. We have dibs on a plastic cover for our GPS which we lost in Hurricane Tomas in October. It seems one irresponsible charterer’s “trash” will provide the Christmas “treasure” for an entire gaggle of cruisers…. It is the cruiser’s ideal Christmas Tale complete with a Tugboat Captain Santa, justice for a Scrooge Charter Captain and lots of toys for happy cruiser girls and boys!