April 20, 2009
We are now in Canouan, which is part of the Grenadines. This island is drastically different than Mustique. It is perhaps the most primitive island we have been to. The roads are mostly dirt paths and chickens, pigs and goats outnumber people. Our anchorage is nice, but there are few other boats here. Soon after we arrived, a small man swam up to our boat asking us if we wanted to buy some lobsters. We got to talking to him and found out that he has no boat. Lobsta-man swims from shore every day a mile or two out to sea and catches lobsters then ties them to his back and swims to the anchored boats to try to sell them. We didn’t buy his lobsters, but a neighboring boat did.
On Sunday, the Pirate was suffering from an ear ache/infection. Cousteau and the Cajun headed into “town” to try to locate some medicine or a doctor. A Rasta-man escorted us to the nurse’s house (there is only one on the island) and she told us she would call the doctor (again only one here) and meet us at the clinic in an hour. We all met the Doctor as she was just finishing up on her previous patient- a dog that was stabbed! It seems that the dog had bitten a lady while on the beach. The lady had told her husband and the husband decided to avenge his wife’s injury by stabbing the dog in the neck with a knife. The dog belonged the family of the manager of the only 5 star resort on this island (Raffles). There are no vets here, so the only doctor was called from home. She saved the dog’s life and then saved the Pirate’s ear. Only in the islands…
After catching up on some much needed boat chores, the Pirate and Cajun walked across the island to the south coast’s Glossy Beach. A local escorted us for a while and then left us saying “it’s only a little ways further, just around the corner.” Three miles and an hour later we arrived at Glossy Beach drenched in sweat and ready to cool off with a cocktail and a swim. To our great dismay the Canouan Beach Hotel on Glossy Bay was closed- the sign said that they close on Mondays. How an entire hotel can close on a Monday is another story. We used their chairs and relaxed, but decided to head back as we were thirsty and had a long hike ahead of us. Luckily, before we got too far, we caught a ride with a local by hopping in the back of his truck. We held on for dear life as he drove up and down hills and around curves like a bat out of hell. But, at least we were saved the long trek home on foot.
Back at our anchorage, we sipped cocktails on the beach at the Tamarind Hotel which was open for business. Their drinks were quite pricy, but we were thirsty. Tonight we are headed to shore to watch the Celtics game at the hotel bar. The simplicity of life on Canouan has taken some adjusting, but we are enjoying ourselves and this island’s beauty.