Green Island, Antigua
March 12, 2009
It was a beautiful morning at our Green Island anchorage. The sun was peeking through the clouds, the birds were flying, coffee was brewing in the galley and everyone was happy to welcome the new day. That is, until the generator “conch’d out”. The coffee stopped mid-brew, clouds became more ominous and our sunny dispositions faded. We had just had the generator completely overhauled in St. Martin to the tune of $3,000. The thing shuddered and coughed to a halt and suddenly the Pirate and Cousteau were scrambling to assess the problem. Of course, this couldn’t have happened during the two weeks we were in English Harbor where there are a ton of mechanics and specialists at your disposal. Nope. It had to happen when we were in the middle of nowhere.
The Pirate narrowed the problem down to one of three things: 1) bad thermostat 2)bad impeller 3) leaking coolant. By a process of elimination, we discovered it was the impeller. Cousteau dug out a new impeller from our storage garage. When we got the old one off, it was clear we had indeed found our problem. The impeller should look like a mini hamster wheel with deep treads on the outside. Ours looked like a rat had chewed off all of the treads- Not Good. Once we got the new impeller installed, the Genny worked like a charm and the coffee was brewing once again.
That afternoon, the Cajun and the Pirate when ashore to check out a place called Harmony Hall, while Cousteau went exploring the sea for more goodies. Harmony Hall is this magnificent little hotel and restaurant situated on a hill overlooking Green Island. There are only 6 rooms and they have a gourmet Caribbean/Italian chef that prepared an awesome lunch for us. We had lobster tagliatelle and a smoked duck salad. Afterwards we relaxed in their pool and then went on top of their 200 year old sugar mill to sip some wine and enjoy the view. It was fantastic. Cousteau picked us up in the dinghy and wouldn’t you know, it was full of conch yet again. We got back to the boat and grilled our Mutton Snapper from the night before and fried some plantains.
We awoke early the next morning to leave at daybreak for Guadeloupe. The sunrise was the most beautiful that have seen. It was a 42 mile sail in calm seas and light wind. Along the way we spotted the whales again. We also had some excitement when the Cajun caught a 10 pound Bonita. We arrived at our destination of Deshaies, Guadeloupe at mid-day. We went ashore to check it out and what a rude awakening we had. The town was shut down for the most part, the parts that were open were occupied by rude French people. Even the Cajun, who spoke the language was a victim of their rudeness. We hightailed it back to our boat vowing not to spend a single Euro (because they don’t take American dollars) at this port. We got to work preparing dinner instead. It was more conch! This time cracked conch deep fried. After two nights of conch, we were again conch’d out.
We settled in after a long day of sailing, fishing, navigating a port full of rude Frogs, beating our dinner then frying it up and charting our course for the next day (for we were only going to stay one night at this anchorage that we began to call De-sh*&s instead of Deshaise). After all of that, we were yet again- conch’d out!